The Jinma 354 is a four-wheel drive, 35-horse power new tractor that comes with a front end loader included.  The Jinma 354 has many standard features which include a 3-cylinder, vertical water-cooled diesel EPA engine, engage/disengage 4WD with a dual stage clutch.  The transmission on the Jinma 354 has eight forward speeds and two reverse speeds.  Fully equipped with a category 1 three-point hitch, power steering and full instrument panel, the Jinma 354 is an affordable, attractive purchase.

 

Many different implements can be attached to the 3-point hitch on the Jinma 354.  Keno Tractors carries a variety of implements that attach to the 3-point hitch.  Snow blowers, mowers, blades, augers, box scrapers, rakes, rototillers and wood chippers are just a few of the possibilities for the Jinma 354.  The Jinma 354 tractor is ideal for using any of these implements.  Attachments such as a backhoe are also available for the Jinma 354 tractor.

 

The owner of Keno Tractors imports the Jinma 354 from China.  The tractors arrive at our shop in a crate.  Our certified mechanics build the tractors here in the shop.  The entire tractor is given a quality assurance inspection.  All the fluids are drained and replaced with American made fluids.  

 

Regular maintenance on the Jinma 354, such as oil changes and fluid level checks, can and should be performed by the tractor owner.  This will go a long way to ensure the prolonged life of your Jinma.  If you are in need of a tractor part or filter, Keno Tractors can help.  Keno Tractors has a fully stocked Parts Department.  The knowledgeable staff can cross-reference the correct filter replacement for your tractor or can ship you the correct part, if that is the resolution to a tractor issue.  The Jinma 354 is a tractor that is designed to be a hard working, reliable tractor.  The simple technology makes this tractor easy to maintain and operate.  The Jinma 354 tractor maximizes usability while minimizing costs.

 

 Are you envious of all those bright red Oregon tractors you see in the fields?  Where are these Oregon tractors coming from?  They have Jinma or Mahindra written all over them!  Don’t be too shy to ask anyone where they got their Oregon tractors.  However, be warned, once you get a tractor owner talking about his Oregon tractor, he may never stop!  Lucky for you, he will need to get back to work on his Oregon tractor or you may never get away.

 

So, where can you get your Oregon tractors?  Wonder no more!  Keno Tractors is the place you can acquire a Jinma tractor or Mahindra tractor of your own.  Check out all the different tractors you can choose from at kenotractors.com.

                    

 Jinma tractors and Mahindra tractors may not originate as Oregon tractors, but once we put our Oregon touch to them, they might as well be called Oregon tractors.

Oregon is a great place to drive and see the countryside.  You’ll see those shiny red Oregon tractors in the hay fields as well as on the football fields.  Whether it is picking up hay or keeping the football field beautiful, these Oregon tractors are getting the job done.  You’ll see them on small farms and big ranches.  Everywhere you look, you’ll see those attractive Oregon tractors. 

The two brands of Oregon tractors you are seeing are Jinma and Mahindra.  Keno Tractors specializes in Jinma tractors and Mahindra tractors.  Get an Oregon tractor for yourself and be the envy of all. 

 

 

 The Jinma 284 is a simple, affordable tractor.  This new tractor has a 25 hp, 3-cylinder vertical water-cooled EPA diesel engine.  The Jinma 284 tractor has engage/disengage 4WD with a dual stage clutch.  

 

 

We import the Jinma 284 from China and build them here in our shop.  Our skilled mechanics assemble the tractor, then the Jinma 284 undergoes a quality assurance check.  All the fluids are drained and replaced with quality American made fluid. 

The Jinma 284 is one of our most popular tractors.  This tractor has power steering and a full instrument panel with gauges.  It features a 3-point hitch and a PTO speed of 540 at 1000 RPM.  It comes equipped with headlights, taillights, rear work lights, a seat belt and roll over protection structure.    

On occasion there might be a spot of whitish oil on the pavement. Locate the correct housing and check the dipstick to verify. Whitish oil indicates water contamination in the unit. If in the engine, evaluate the operating habits of the tractor. Does it run for short spurts without ever really heating up?

Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. Learn to use your nose to diagnose particular smells.

Green puddles are due to antifreeze leakage. See if the fluid can be traced to the overflow tube coming from the radiator cap. If it is, check the rubber gasket integrity in the cap, the sealing surface on the radiator for nicks or grooves, and make sure that the pressure overflow spring is not broken. An overfilled radiator when cold will force extra antifreeze out when the motor warms up. Check to see if the radiator has a fill mark cast into the back of the radiator and fill accordingly. Look for bad hose connections in the cooling circuit especially where the hose ends meet the radiator.

The names of the people participating have been left out. It starts out with the following post: "We just bought a little 4+acre in Western Washington. We need to a tractor to prep and mow/maintain the property. I have 2 horses to do most of the "mowing". But, I need a tractor. My father is an old farmer/construction man (who loves JD's) but says a Ford is best for our needs. Its about a 2% grade with a bit of a swell to it. I want a front-loader (for snow and poop) with a disk and maybe a box scraper. I've been looking around, but I'm not sure what to look/ask for. I don't want to get taken advantage of (I'm female). What's the best older tractor and can I expect to pay more than $4000 for one (my budget is tight)? Any advice about where to look and how much to pay?" What followed are some very interesting replies: " You've probably noticed that brand loyalty is strong in the old-tractor world. My particular loyalty is to Fords. There's nothing worng with JD at all, they're fine machines. But a JD in the price and size class you are considering will probably lack the most important feature on a "using" tractor, and that's a standard ASAE 3-point hitch. All Ford have these as standard. This alone is a compelling argument for a Ford - the ability to switch implements quickly and easily, and to buy new implements which will fit.

A common characteristic of keeping older equipment is that some parts to make repairs can be extremely difficult to locate. For example, finding a replacement for a cracked intake or exhaust manifold on a unique tractor or odd brand can be a frustrating and downright impossible mission. So, what is an alternative solution to scraping out that ‘one of a kind’ piece of history? First, decide if you are one to try a repair yourself or have someone else do it.

The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up.

If you can follow my description, it is pretty simple to troubleshoot the coils. First of all don't remove them unless you have to. If you take them out, it will be difficult (though possible) to get them back in without the proper tools. The only two things that can go wrong are either that the wires have lost their insulation somewhere and are touching ground (such as the generator casing) or they have broken leaving you with an open circuit. To test, remove the generator from the tractor, pull out the armature (because the test won't work with it in) and pull the backing plate away from the generator casing (simply because you will need to see the wires and brushes clearly). With everything spread out like this, first test for an open circuit by locating the F terminal (if its not marked, you can identify which terminal is F by noting which terminal wire goes directly to the field coils) and then locating the other end (follow the brush wire that leads to the field coils). Put your continuity tester (a voltage ohm meter set to "low ohms" such that touching your leads together will register on the meter) leads on the F terminal and on the brush that appears to lead to the coil. If your meter doesn't register anything, you have an open circuit. If you are lucky (and most of the time you will be), the open will be in the wires external to the coils and you can solder and reinsulate them. This open will probably be nearly obvious since an open in the stationary coils themselves is less likely than an open in the wires that are free to move around. Years of brush replacement usually moves these wires around and leads to an open. The reason this causes the generator to fail is that with little or no current flowing though these wires, no magnetic field and thus no electricity is generated.